Not enough gain and nobody hears the singer (a blessing sometimes) and too much gain and the microphone squeals with feedback. Kind of like but not exactly like turning the gain up on a microphone when mixing live music. Basically ISO in a digital camera is a gain amplification on the sensor. There are lots of explanations floating around regarding ISO in the digital world and I'm not sure any are more correct than the others. Finally, I stopped trying to figure it out (and I have a degree in computer science and spent over 30 years in the IT industry). I also came from the film world and can relate to your questions. Hope I didn't muddy the water any more for you. One thing I will say enlargement prints shot at ISO400 on today's digital cameras are a totally different world than shooting ISO400 film although film still has some charms. The freezing action, allowing some motion blur, depth of field etc. If I ever see a Sasquatch in the woods I wouldn't want to miss the picture I rarely let it go that high with shutter speed and aperture but if I see something that may be the shot of a lifetime I don't want to miss it. I set the maximum range for auto ISO at 8000. Like DR said above, it does pretty well at ISO6400. Then set the maximum ISO range to about 1 stop more than that. What I would suggest is finding out what the maximum ISO you can use on your particular camera to produce images acceptable to you. But the early DSLRs were still pretty limited, I rarely shot with my Nikon D1H or D2X up above ISO 800 as the early digital camera sensors weren't as forgiving as what we have today.Ĭlick to expand.I also came from the film world and can relate to your questions. But coming from the days where push processing Velvia a stop to ISO 100 was a very conscious and infrequent decision it's pretty amazing that we can shoot up around ISO: 800, 1000, 1600, 2500 or so especially with modern full frame DSLRs or MILCs and substantially higher than that when needed. There are still big advantages to keeping ISO as low as practical, particularly with Dynamic Range and especially if you'll need to pull shadow details up in post processing so just like the old days if you can reasonably keep ISO a bit lower it's a good thing. In addition to better sensor technology some of the dedicated noise reduction/sharpening tools like the Topaz products allow ISO to be pushed even higher when necessary. I have no qualms shooting my D5 up to ISO 10,000 or even higher in a pinch and even my D500 with its crop sensor does really well up to at least ISO 4000 if not 6400. ![]() ![]() ![]() Today's sensors, especially some of the better full frame sensors, are pretty amazing at high ISO. I know it's my lack of understanding of this new digital world, but hard to get my head around.Ĭlick to expand.It does take some getting used to for film shooters or even shooters of early DSLRs that didn't do well at high ISO settings. I bought the Secrets to Exposure ebook of Steve's, and yes only on page 91, but still shaking my head reading of shutter speeds often at 1000, 2000, or even 4000 and struggling how the resultant ISO can give me good quality prints when in the film days that would be impossible. Now I'm in the digital world shooting RAW that appears to take film brands/color_tendicies out of the equation.but now with the idea for wildlife photography of focusing largely on shutter speed and depth of field, and floating the ISO, it leaves my mind a bit blown. There were times I shot Fuji 400 and push processed to get a shutter speed I needed for a project.at a cost of course. So for my entier photographic life, it was all about film brand/type for color tendicies ( like Agfa, Kodacrome, Fujii), then ASA for "how grainy can I accept", and largely fstop for depth of field and shutter speed compromises. So.I've been a film guy my entire life, and about a year ago finally relented and went digital.
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